Having been away in the US for the holidays and returning to Kazakhstan, I feel like I am going through a renewed wave of culture shock. It’s not that everything is unfamiliar, it’s that certain things that I had gotten used to are newly irritating. There are a number of every day experiences that certainly got under my skin before, but that I quickly brushed off. Now I suddenly feel angry, “Oh God, not this again!”. It’s perhaps unfair of me, as if I expected the country to change in three weeks just to suit me. Nevertheless it provides an index of what is hardest for an American in Astana. So what follows is a list of the five daily experiences that I am newly rubbed raw by:
1) The elevator doesn’t work. Returning home with a lot of heavy bags, we are met by a broken lift. It did get fixed that afternoon, only to break again in the evening and remain broken for 2 days. Just an irritating reminder that things in Astana don’t always work–or get fixed.
2) I went out to get some sausage, milk, bread and cheese for breakfast our first day back. At the store we regularly shop at, the woman who sells sausage wasn’t in yet and the woman who has to hand you the cheese over the counter was also missing. So even though there was sausage and cheese there, I couldn’t buy it. I went to another store which had a sausage lady, but no cheese. At a third store, they had milk but only whole milk and I wanted 2.5% fat. So I had to go to a fourth store to get cheese. As I tell people at home, you can get anything you want here; you just can’t get it all the time or in the way you want it. It’s also annoying that even small convenience stores sublet space out or have certain things you can’t get yourself, so even if the store is open, not all the products are available all the time.
3) Ok, the cold is horrible but I don’t think anyone can do anything about that so I won’t complain. I will complain however, that no one plows the small roads or sidewalks. They run a tractor over them, which presses the snow down turning it into ice. Uneven ice at that. Why do I have to walk on ice from November to March? And I don’t mean only on small roads or in the yard of my apartment complex–I mean on side streets off the main street. Meanwhile the parks are clear of snow in case anyone wants to go have a picnic in February!
4) I had also not missed everybody’s favorite game: “Guess which door is open?” Going to the supermarket, of the three outside doors only the one on the far right was unlocked. But getting out of the entranceway, only the far left inside door was unlocked. Why is there always only one open door? Don’t stores want people to be able to come in easily and efficiently? I suspect there is some logic at play here, since many stores tie doors shut with tape or rope, so dear readers enlighten me.
5) The pushing! I had forgotten that no matter how close to a store window or store counter you stand, someone will still try to push in front of you. Or coming up to a bus stop, if you are not pressed right up to the door, someone will push their bag in front of you, to open a gap and then push you back. I did love being able to look in the windows of stores without keeping my elbows out to threaten anyone who tried to block my view or get in first.
I hope that this list doesn’t offend–it is written partially tongue-in-cheek. But for a country that is trying to build international tourism, maybe you could work on some of these things instead of building five-star hotels where the elevators still won’t work, people won’t come to work on time and you will fall on your butt two seconds out the door. Please!
EDIT: Chris Merriman has posted his own list of pet peeves for foreigners, so check that out too if you like.